The former French regions of Alsace-Lorraine (today incorporated in the region of Grand-Est) are frequently paired together for the exact same reason that they are remembered: they were, in 1871, handed over to Germany following France’s defeat during the Franco-Prussian War. This loss would later be given by many historians in subsequent years as one of the reasons behind the breakout of the First World War 43 years later. And while its geographic position made it the forefront of conflicts during those years, notably being home to the trenches of the Battle of Verdun (modern history’s longest-lasting battle), summarizing the entirety of these regions to nothing more than border conflicts would be doing these beautiful and culturally rich landscapes a great disservice. What if I were to tell you that under the bomb scars and beyond its customary grey skies, lies a place far more interesting than what meets the eye ?
La Lorraine
“My Lorraine is a land of heavy, clayey soil, forests, and ponds. It took me some distance to appreciate its contrasts.”
Claudius Thiriet, Ma Lorraine
Lorraine, a former principality belonging to the Holy Roman Empire of Germany, long retained a strong identity between French and Germanic influences. When Stanislas Leszczynski, former king of Poland and father-in-law of Louis XV, lost the War of Polish Succession in 1735 and was exiled from his country, he was gifted the duchy of Lorraine under the condition that it would be granted to France upon his death, which happened in 1766. Under Stanislas, Lorraine flourished as an intellectual and cultural center.
Lorraine is also home to many of France’s favorite dishes. For instance, the quiche Lorraine, which you can find slices of in every local bakery around the country, used to be France’s most consumed dish until fairly recently. Mirabelle tarts shine through their simplicity and richness, and Commercy madeleines are a delicacy beloved by many. Proust himself, one of France’s most renowned writers and author of the longest book in the world, talks at length about it and the flow of memory that brings about the smell of this little cake, in his book ‘In Search of Lost Time’ (À la recherche du temps perdu). In fact, the section has become so iconic to the French eye that we now have an expression named after it: someone’s “madeleine de Proust” is a title given to a nostalgic smell, taste or sound which dredges up a long-lost memory in them.
Here are some notable areas in the Lorraine region:
- Nancy
Once the capital of the independent Duchy of Lorraine during the Middle Ages and Renaissance, it rivaled nearby Metz, leading to both political and military conflicts. The most notable one was the War of Metz, when the dukes of Lorraine sought to assert their independence against French influence. Today, Nancy is best known for its stunning Place Stanislas, a UNESCO World Heritage site which was commissioned in the 18th century by Stanislas himself.
Nancy is also renowned for its Art Nouveau heritage, especially the works of the École de Nancy, whose artists and craftsmen turned the city into a center of creative innovation at the turn of the 20th century. Nancy charms visitors with its local delicacies, such as the Bergamote de Nancy and charbon lorrain, a treat resembling a piece of coal, a nod to its industrial past.
- Pont à Mousson
A small city in the heart of Lorraine, Pont-à-Mousson has only about 20,000 inhabitants. Despite its rather understated reputation, every French person has heard of it at least once in their life for one simple reason: Pont-à-Mousson is a key player in the French steel industry and is best known, somewhat curiously, for its production of manhole covers. Manholes marked ‘PAM’ can be found everywhere: not only across France, but also in many countries near and far. In fact, my siblings and I like to try and spot PAM manholes everywhere we go. Here are a few examples.
Pont-à-Mousson is also home to one of Europe’s oldest universities: the University of Lorraine, founded in 1572, before it was eventually absorbed by Nancy in the 20th century. Back in its prime, scholars from all across Europe would travel to Pont-à-Mousson, drawn by the quality and affordability of its education.
And of course, no portrait of Lorraine would be complete without mentioning Verdun and its memorial, the beautiful city of Metz, and the region’s historic mines — each carrying its own story of resilience, heritage, and identity.
L’Alsace
“ Do you like Alsace? It is a beautiful region, a land blessed by heaven. […] It captivates anyone who has ever set eyes on it with its unique charm and the wonders of human endeavor. “
– Charles Grad, L’Alsace, le pays et ses habitants
Alsace has a fascinating history shaped by its position between France and Germany. Over the centuries, it has passed between French and German control five times since 1681, leaving a unique cultural blend reflected in the everyday life of its inhabitants. What results is a dialect called alsatian, a Germanic language spoken by over 900,000 people as of 2013.
When mentioning this region, what comes to the mind of most is its hearty and flavorful cuisine, combining French finesse (that is to say, as much finesse as combining butter with cheese brings) with German comfort. Signature dishes include ‘choucroute garnie’ (sauerkraut with sausages and meats), ‘Flammekueche’ (a thin-crust tart with cream, cheese, and lard… Most would be quick to draw the comparison with a pizza, even though neither of them have ever had any connection whatsoever), and the beloved ‘bretzel’, a German classic. The region is also famous for its white wines, especially Riesling and Gewurztraminer, which perfectly complement its rich culinary heritage.
Said heritage can best be found in places such as:
- Colmar
Colmar, nestled in the heart of France’s Alsace region, once the economic hub of the region way back in the Middle Ages, is today like a fairy tale city come to life. Its old history gives it a medieval tone. With its enchanting half-timbered houses (we call them ‘maisons à colombages’), picturesque canals, and vibrant flower-lined streets, the city’s rich blend of French and German heritage turns Colmar into a timeless gem. It is thanks to these assets that the master of animation Hayao Miyazaki himself chose Colmar to be the setting of his famous movie ‘Howl’s Moving Castle’! Besides a wonderfully huge Christmas store open all year long and its beautifully colored streets, Colmar was also the hometown of Auguste Bartholdi, the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty, whose legacy still graces the city today. Because of it, you can find a few statue merchandise as well as a miniature Statue of Liberty all around town.
- Strasbourg
Strasbourg, founded by the Romans as Argentoratum way back in 12 BC, grew into a vital crossroads between French and German cultures and today stands as the capital of Alsace. In fact, it is often used as a synecdoche to represent the whole region. People also associate it with its role as the seat of the European Parliament. The Notre-Dame Cathedral, standing tall in the rich city, is one of the most renowned Gothic cathedrals in the world, a true architectural masterpiece built from local sandstone. The city is at its busiest during December, thanks to its famous Christmas market, the Christkindelsmärik, one of the oldest in Europe, which has earned Strasbourg the title of ‘capital of Christmas’… A title which it is quite deservedly proud of.
And this is only scratching the surface; other notable destinations include the majestic Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg (Hohkönigsburg) and the charming town of Riquewihr — two jewels that capture the region’s timeless beauty and rich history.
Sources :
bc6p06xsjv5.pdf : « L’Alsacien, deuxième langue régionale de France » (PDF). Chiffres pour l’Alsace. INSEE. December 2002.
https://www.britannica.com/place/Lorraine-region-France
https://www.iwm.org.uk/history/what-was-the-battle-of-verdun
Photos :
1. https://www.lalsace.fr/actualite/2014/01/16/une-fusion-alsace-lorraine-plus-difficile-encore-que-le-conseil-unique
2. Montage de 4 photos prises par l’auteur, Pierre Hudelet
